CROSSBARN Chardonnay 2017

(Sonoma Coast, California) $24

“Restraint” has never been California chardonnay’s middle name. At least historically. But lately, and ever so slightly, the pendulum seems to be swinging back, away from the sweet-oak-and-butter bombshells that have dominated for way too long. When a wine tastes like a cross between St. Joseph Aspirin for Children and a Butterfingers bar, you know a change is desperately needed. CrossBarn’s 2017 chardonnay (only 8% was barrel fermented) is a great change agent. The round, mouthfilling flavors of poached pears, quince, brioche, and lime zest are comfortable and familiar, but along with them come sparks of freshness and minerality. Plus, the finish is clean, precise, long, and (happily) not evocative of Cool Whip. CrossBarn: time to crossover. (14.1% abv)

91 points KM

Available at

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