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What is Complexity in Wine?

“I kind of grew up being the only [Black person] around. By the time I entered the wine industry, I was already comfortable being the only one, and I look at it as a position of power because people are going to know your name whether you’re in the room or not.”

—Brenae Royal, promoted at the age of 23, by E&J Gallo to vineyard manager of its historic 130-year-old Monte Rosso vineyard in Sonoma County, California. She is also one of the Wine Enthusiast’s 40 Under 40 Tastemakers for 2020.