Will, you’ve just put your finger on one of wine’s great mysteries. No one knows why. And there’s a corollary idea that’s equally perplexing: If you ferment apricots or cherries, the resulting “wine” still tastes like those fruits. But wine made from grapes doesn’t taste like grapes. It can taste like a hundred other things from lemons to cowboy boots, but it almost never tastes like grapes themselves.