What is rocío?
A. The term used in Sicily for laying out grapes on straw mats in the sun to dry and concentrate them before making a sweet wine
B. The process in Madeira of gently heating wine-filled tanks in order to darken the wine
C. The Catalan word for long aged whites that have taken on an oxidized almost rancid character
D. The term used in Sherry production for replenishing the wine in one barrel with wine from another barrel
In Sherry production, the process of replenishing the wine in one row (criadera) with wine that has been extracted from barrels in the criadera above it is called rocio (row-CEE-oh). The word means “morning dew” and is a reflection of how gently the wine must be handled when it is moved between criaderas. This continual process of extracting wines from barrels and replenishing other barrels has a lovely name. It’s called correr escalas—running the scales, and it’s done several times a year.