Musty

A dank, old-attic smell in a wine, attributed to unclean storage containers and sometimes to grapes processed when moldy.

You just tasted a wine which possessed flavors reminiscent of fresh peaches and lime. It had a medium body, crisp acidity, and a touch of minerality. It was most likely a:

A. Sancerre

B. Chateauneuf-du-Pape blanc

C. Chablis

D. Albariño

Albariño is the white grape of the denomination Rías Baixas (REE-as BUY-shez) on the Atlantic coast of Galicia in far northwestern Spain. The region, with its beautiful green vegetation, looks more like Ireland than Spain. The region’s vineyards form an arc around the deep sea inlets (rías) that pierce the coast. Needless to say, this is a place famous for its seafood. And albariño is a perfect partner.

“On one particular occasion, André [Tchelistcheff] and I were visiting Sancerre [in France’s Loire Valley], specifically Didier Dagueneau. But before we arrived at the winery, André told us to stop by the road. He got out and walked over to the vineyard, bent down, grabbed a handful of dirt in his hands, rubbed it and then told me to do the same. Then he said, ‘Smell it because that is what you will smell in the wine.’ And he was right. When we tasted Didier’s ‘Silex,’ I was overwhelmed by the aroma and unique mineral character in the wine.”

—Rob Davis, winemaker at Jordan Winery in Alexander Valley, California, talking about his mentor, the late André Tchelistcheff, who is considered the father of California winemaking

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