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Winemakers always keep barrels of aging wine “topped up” with regular additions of more wine to replace what has evaporated, to minimize the wine’s exposure to oxygen.

Answer: False.

In most cases, this conventional winemaking wisdom is sound practice. But it is the actual invitation to oxygen that makes some of the world’s most hauntingly delicious and complex wines possible, including certain styles of Sherry, Port, Madeira, and Marsala, as well as some of the dry table wines of the Jura region of France.

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