Oregon has become a hotbed of fantastic, artisanal Chardonnays—Chardonnays that are refined and complex. One of our favorite producers: BIG TABLE FARM, a husband-and-wife team who do everything, including draw the labels by hand. The 2019 BIG TABLE FARM Chardonnays (just released) are leaner and racier than usual, reflecting the coolness of the vintage. The 2019 BIG TABLE FARM Chardonnay from Eola-Amity ($48/ 93 pts) is vividly fresh and packed with “lemonicity.” The winery’s top wine—BIG TABLE FARM “The Elusive Queen” Chardonnay 2019 from the Willamette Valley ($85/ 95 pts)— is a starburst of minerality. Tightly wound now, it’s a super concentrated chardonnay to cellar for a year or two.