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BODEGAS BERONIA Rioja Gran Reserva 2011

(Rioja, Spain) $32

Spain continues to be the global source of older wines at fantastic prices. This Beronia Gran Reserva, for example. With its dark earthy aromas, it reminds me of the intoxicatingly good smell of rich potting soil. There are wonderful notes of sour cherries and a texture that’s utterly mellow—classic for old Riojas made from Tempranillo grapes. I also love the animali, slightly sweaty character here (the appealing smell of a man who’s just run a mile).  Some on my tasting team thought there might be a tiny bit of Brettanomyces in the wine. If so, it came across in an attractive way. Sensational with something meaty and umami-rich like roast lamb or pork. (14.5% abv)

92 points KM

Available at Wollaston Wine & Spirits

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