CHÂTEAU D’ÉPIRÉ Savennières 2021
(Savennières, Loire Valley, France) $31
One of the most intriguing things a wine can possess is contrapuntal tension—a dynamic energy of opposite ideas. This Savennières, for example, is both languorously creamy and in the same split second, has slashing daggers of delicious acidity. Tasting it is like being plunged from a warm bath into a cold one. Savennières is one of my favorite white wine appellations in the Loire Valley. The wines (all made from Chenin Blanc) are sleek, vivid, and dance on waves of oceanic minerality. There’s lots of white pepper and citrusy stuff too. In fact, the wine is so damn refreshing, you won’t be able to put your glass down (a great thing if you’ve got, say, a platter of crunchy fried chicken for dinner). Château d’Épiré is a many-centuries-old celebrated estate, and their dry Savennières is widely considered a “Grand Cru.” It should cost a lot more than it does, so I hope you’ll snap up a few bottles(!).
95 points KM
Available at Kermit Lynch