DOMAINE LEFLAIVE Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru “Clavoillon” 2013 

(Burgundy, France) $139

What must it have been like to be a vigneron in the little village of Puligny-Montrachet in, say, 1980, watching as winemakers everywhere from Monterey, California, to Margaret River, Australia, began planting chardonnay as fast as they could. I bet they weren’t worrying. Because the winemakers of Puligny-Montrachet aren’t in the chardonnay business; they are in the Puligny-Montrachet business. This exquisite Leflaive tells the story best. Its vivid bolts of fresh acidity infuse the wine with an “aliveness” that’s electrifying. Meanwhile, the wine’s nutty/earthy richness is mind bending. Alas, chardonnay does not do this; Puligny-Montrachet does this. (13.5% abv)

96 points KM

Available at Calvert Woodley