SELBACH-OSTER Zeltingen Sonnenuhr Riesling GG 2020

(Mosel, Germany) $50

I first met the multi-generational Selbach family at their home on the Mosel River nearly thirty years ago. I remember the ravishing purity of their wines back then. Today (if this is possible), the wines are even better—crystalline, deeply rich yet aerial with elegance. This dry Riesling in particular tastes to me as if, by magic, tender ripe apricots have metamorphosed into crunchy minerals. The wine fairly vibrates with aliveness. It is ranked a GG or Grosses Gewächs (Great Growth) from the family’s rocky Grand Cru-level estate vineyard near the sonnenuhr (sundial) midslope on the hill above the town of Zeltingen—a perfect “thermal belt” site. Like all exquisite GG wines, this is dry. It’s made from 80-year-old vines, sunlight, and nothing more (except perhaps a lot of TLC).

96 points KM

Available at Back Room Wines