Veraison

Veraison (ver-AY-zhun) is happening right now all over California. It’s the time in a vine’s growing cycle when grape berries begin to soften and change color. “White” grapes go from green to yellowish, and red grapes go from green to dark red or purple. Veraison is important to winemakers because it signals the onset of final ripening before harvest.

There are 51 Grand Cru vineyards in Alsace. Although the Grand Cru status is one of the most esteemed, there are some producers of great reputation who have chosen not to use the designation. Which of the following producers DOES use the Grand Cru designation?

A. Hugel

B. Zind-Humbrecht

C. Trimbach

D. Léon Beyer

Zind-Humbrecht designates several wines from its greatest vineyards as Grand Cru. Although the other three producers all own Grand Cru vineyards (or parts of them), they do not use the term on some of their best wines. The decision not to use the term is a form of quiet protest over the standards set for Alsace Grand Cru vineyards, which some producers feel are not as stringent as they would like. Trimbach’s famous riesling called Clos Ste.-Hune, for example, is not designated Grand Cru although it could be since the wine comes from a tiny plot within the Grand Cru vineyard called Rosacker.

“I kind of grew up being the only [Black person] around. By the time I entered the wine industry, I was already comfortable being the only one, and I look at it as a position of power because people are going to know your name whether you’re in the room or not.”

—Brenae Royal, promoted at the age of 23, by E&J Gallo to vineyard manager of its historic 130-year-old Monte Rosso vineyard in Sonoma County, California. She is also one of the Wine Enthusiast’s 40 Under 40 Tastemakers for 2020.

Veraison

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