They’re excellent for ice cream. But for Champagne? They’re terrible, even though they seem to be coming back into fashion. First, saucer-shaped glasses (called coupes) only hold about three sips of wine. Not very generous in my book. But even worse, coupes are so shallow that the bubbles disappear immediately. Sparklers need a more vertical vessel so that the bubbles have upward space to form a long line to the surface (the French call this a “bead”). Bubbles give sparklers their exciting texture. I, for one, wouldn’t want to give that up.